Puerto Natales

We’ve always wanted to travel to Patagonia and explore the awe-inspiring Torres del Paine National Park. That’s why while being in Santiago, we decided to book flights with the Sky Airlines to get to Punta Arenas and then we took a bus that drove us to the small town of Puerto Natales.

It’s a popular tourist destination that’s a perfect geteway to explore the real Patagonia. Perto Natales is a picturesque town that resembles Norwegin cities a lot. It’s also a place that’s located nearby the famous Torres del Paine National Park.

We described one of our hikes here. We still wanted to explore more wonders in the chilean Patagonia before we cross the border to Argentina. We decided to book a one day tour that took us all around the Torres del Paine National Park and its mountain ranges. We could explore its emerald lakes, wild guanacos, glaciers and fantastic summits. The whole day was an unforgettable experience.

Puerto Natales

Charming Town

Torres del Paine entrance

The Park is located about 2-hour drive away from Puerto Natales. As we were getting closer to its entry, we could already admire  the famous three towers Torres del Paine that are resposible to the park’s name. We also stopped by the Lake Sarmiento, where we could marvel at three granite peaks we hiked to, the day before.

Sarmiento Lake

Wild guanaco and Amaraga Lagoon

As we were driving towards the Park, we could notice wild guanacos – the cousins of lamas and alpacas that are very popualar in Peru. This species lives in the rough conditions of the Southern Patagonia and it is used to harsh winters and howling winds Patagonia is famous for. Even the trees that have been planted by the streets are bent from the constant force of the winds. Fortunately, our guide made sure we can get off the bus and take some pictures in the meantime. The next viewing point was located by the Amarga Lagoon, on the small hill. The colours of the water is pure emerald because it’s sourced from a glacier and is full of minerals and dust from smashed rocks.

Guanacos in their habitat

Heading to Torres del Paine

Wild Guanacos

Laguna Amarga

Cuernos del Paine

As we drove further into Torres Del Paine National Park, we saw that the views behind the window change rapidly. From each side, the mountains looked differently, but equally impresive. We left the Towers behind us and now it was time to marvel at  Cuernos del Paine – the Horns. Those summits were carved by the mighty glaciers back in the days. They seemed to be in a variety of colours.

Salto Grande Waterfall

Later on, we took a short walk to Salto Grande waterfall. It was powered by the melting glaciers as well, so it had the same intensive colour as the lakes we had seen before. Right next to it, there was a splendid view of the mountains and the glaciers covering their tops. We could not stop staring at it. Finally, the strong wind convinced us that it was time to go.

Ferocious Winds

Be prepared for the Patagonian summer

Salto Grande

The Horns

Lake Pahoe

Next, we headed towards the camping grounds at the lake Pahoe, where the lunch break was planned. You needed to have your own food or pay way too much for some snacks at the bar. The place was unbelievable. It was one of the best views of Cuernos del Paine. If we ever come back here, we would love to stay at this campground to peacefully enjoy sunrise and sunset by the lake. The mountain range on the opposite side of the azure lake is so neat it makes you forget about all the world outside of the National Park.

Our lovely lunch spot!

Lago Pahoe

Lago Grey

The third part of the park that we visited was the Grey Lake – Lago Grey. From the parking lot we had to take a 15 min walk. The path led us through the forest and soon enough we could enjoy the view of the lake. There were some deep-blue ice bergs floating in it. Such a stunning sight! Even though we could not see the Grey Glacier itself, we could see the bits of it that fell off and drifted away.

The entire lake was created as the glacier retreated. It is a part of the Southern Patagonia Icefield. This is the third largest icefield in the world. Smaller only than the one in Atarctica and one Greenland.

We could walk all the way to the edge of the water. Except of the big ice bergs, there were also small ice floats that were pushed to the beach by the weves. The neat peaks of the Paine Range were amazing backdrop for this view. Incredible!

Ice bergs cracked from the glacier

Lago Grey

Patagonia is full of amazing lakes

What’s next?

After exiting the National Park, we stopped by the Lago del Toro to enjoy the view of one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the World, for the last time. In the distance the peaks of the  Cuernos del Paine were towering above this azure lake. This is the picture we won’t forget. There were much more attractions and things to do in Patagonia. On the next day, we were going to catch a bus to Argentina. Mountains on the other side of the borders are supposingly just as great. We had to go and see it all with our own eyes!

Lago del Toro

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Base de las Torres

Base Las Torres in the Torres del Paine National Park in the far south Patagonia was one of the most awaited places by us in the entire year of travelling. A few months before we were marveling at the majestic peaks of Tre Cime in Italian Dolomites, but back then we did not know that we would make it all the way to Patagonia in the very same year! Visually both of these places have some things in common.

In Italy we had a sneak peak of Patagonia. When we made it to the famous lagoon with the glorious three, granite towers in Chile we felt that we had seen this place before. The world is so diverse and yet some places look surprisingly similar.

Torres del Paine National Park

You can easily spend many days in Torres del Paine walking countless kilometers of trails. The most famous multiday treks are the W-Trek and the O-Trek. There is quite some planning and logistics to do if you wish to finish them. You need to book camping sites well in advance and take all the equipment, food and water with you. We were not so eager for such an effort. Previously we hiked the 5-day Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu, so we knew what almost 100 km of walking in the mountains would feel like. What is more, back then the supplies and the extra luggage were carried by the horses and all the meals were cooked by a chef who was assigned to our group. In addition, the fees for the camping sites in Torres are really high (80 USD for a night in a tent per person).

One-day trek to  Base de las Torres

After some reaserch and brainstorm it turned out that we can make it to the most famous viewpoint in just one day. It is an 18-km roundtrip hike. We decided to set a base in Puerto Natales and explore the park during the one-day trips.

Landscape of Patagonia

Entrance fee to the Torres del Paine National Park

For everyone who is not chilean, the entry ticket is 21.000 pesos which is around 35 USD. It is quite expensive and the locals pay only one third of the price. Luckily for us, on the day of our visit there was a strike! Park rangers are unhappy with the politics, because the park is used as a way to make money and not as a mean to protect the nature. We were pleasantly suprised that we didn’t have to pay the entry fee.

Park Rangers on the Strike!

Begining of the trail

Trekking  in Patagonia

The trail to the lagoon is 9-km long which sums up to 18 km roundtrip. It starts easy and flat. You need to pass Hotel de Torres and start your ascent. Next part is uphill and takes about 40 minutes. After a while, you can enjoy the panoramic views of the valley and the lakes behind your back. The half-way point is a shelter and campsite situated on the riverbank. From there, the trail runs through a thick forest. It is a very pleasant part where you need to cross the stream a few times using the wooden bridges.

Walking through the forest

Crossing the stream

Beauty of Patagonia

day hike in Torres del Paine

The most difficult part of the trek

After another 40 minutes, when the forest ends the hardest part of the trail starts. There is 300 meters of elevation ahead and the trail runs steep uphill and you need to make your way across the rocks, loose stones, gravel and water creeks. It is the most challenging part of the trail, but after 40 minutes – 1 hour, you can already see the incredible view of the granite towers and the lake. It is the famous Mirador de las Torres!

Patagonia

Last part of the hike

Getting to the National Park

If you are planning to visit Torres del Paine you need to catch a bus from Puerto Natales, which takes 2 hours and 15 minutes. There is a number of agencies in the bus terminal. We decided to leave on a first bus at 7:30 am. It cost 12.000 pesos per person for a round trip, which is around 20 USD. The last bus back from the park departues at 7:45 pm, so we had enough time to hike up, back down and spend 2 leisure hours at the top.

When we made it to the top, the towers were hidding in the clouds. The weather in Patagonia changes rapidly thought so it cleared up a bit later, fortunately.

The bus took us to the park entrance and than we had to take a minivan further to the Hotel de Torres. It was extra 3000 pesos per person, one way and it took 15 minutes. From there, we could easily walk to the trailhead which was well marked.

The cost of the one-day trip

To sum up, the cost per person to get to the park by bus and then the minivan, roundtrip was 12.000 + 6.000 = 18.000 pesos, so around 30 USD. In addition, the entry ticket fee to the National Park, valid for 3 days, is another 35 USD (November 2017). We only regret that on the way towards the Park, we couldn’t stop to take pictures. The views behind the windows were breathtaking and there were wild guanacos everywhere.

Guanacos in front of the Paine range

Torres del Paine

Laguna Amarga

The weather in Patagonia

The trail to the Mirador de las Torres is a great way to see the magnificent Patagonia, up close. The landscapes are fantastic, mountains incredible and the lakes extraordinary with a deep emerald green colour. We were there in late November which was just before the high season (December & January). It was summer, but we were wearing winter jackets, scarfs and beanies. The winds are ferocious. Nevertheless, you can be lucky because sunny days do happen, even if the morning looks miserable. The weather can change every 15 minutes. It is one of the best places on the planet to do some trekking. We recommend hiking to the Base de las Torres and seeing Patagonia with your own eyes!

It is clearing up!

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